Turtles

« Delicious and chewy chocolate caramel turtle brownies. »

While trying to come up with something to make for Easter to supplement my annual pitiful attempt at making pasha/pashka, I found a recipe for some dark chocolate turtle brownies that immediately trumped all the other possibilities if only because I used to eat turtles by the box and haven't had any since I left the US. I don't remember if turtle candies were very popular in New England, but in the Midwest, they are a classic staple. Chocolate coated caramel with nuts is tough to argue with in terms of taste and texture.

When I went hunting for the origin of turtles it was somewhat surprising that the only useful clue was from the linguist list archives where Barry Popik, the resident food word hunter for the OED in NYC, had found the first citation for turtles. Finally, I found that DeMet's, the original maker of turtles in Chicago, had been sold to Nestlé in 1988.

DeMet's Turtles was introduced in the early 1920s by Rowntree DeMet's Inc. An employee at the chocolate factory remarked that the new candy, with pecans protruding from its side, looked like a turtle. The name stuck. Nestlé acquired Rowntree DeMet's Inc. in 1988. In January 1996 the name changed to NESTLÉ® TURTLES.

The current turtles don't look like the ones I remember devouring limb by limb as a kid since you can't see the four pecan halves poking out from beneath the mound of chocolate coated caramel which looked like legs and lent the confection the appearance of a turtle. I suppose you'll just have to use your imagination.

Turtle brownies sounded too good to pass up and, after eating half of a batch of them I can vouch for their crack-like addictiveness for the chewy, nutty and dark chocolate brownie lover. The caramel is just heavenly on top, too. The brownie batter is quick and easy, but the caramel should be approached with care and preparation since it isn't difficult to make, but it can be a bit scary for the first-time cook. Use a deep sauce pan if you have one and when the caramelized sugar is ready for the addition of the cream, pour in a small amount at a time while vigorously whisking as it bubbles and spatters from the extreme heat. It will be smooth and spatter-free by the last addition of cream. Those not adventurous enough to make their own can likely use a bag of Brach's caramels (in the US), melted and poured on top although it won't taste quite the same as a batch of fresh caramel.

Ultimate Turtle Brownies 

Makes: 25 (1 1/2-inch-square or 3.8 cm-square) Brownies
Time: Prep time - about 30 minutes + 30 min bake time and 3 hours cooling time
Source: CI, May 2006

Caramel

• 1/4 cup or 0,60 dl heavy cream plus 2 additional tablespoons
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt 
• 1/4 cup or 0,60 dl water 
• 2 tablespoons light corn syrup 
• 1 1/4 cups or 250g sugar
• 2 tablespoons or 28g unsalted butter 
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 

Brownies

• 1 stick or 113g unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
• 4 ounces or 113g bittersweet chocolate, chopped
• 2 ounces ore 56g unsweetened chocolate, chopped
• 3/4 cup or 106g unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 
• 2 large eggs, room temperature
• 1 cup or 198g sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt 
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 
• 2/3 cup or ~78g chopped pecans
• 1/3 cup or 0,75dl semisweet chocolate chips (optional)

Garnish

• 25 pecan halves, toasted

 

1. For the caramel: Combine cream and salt in small bowl; stir well to dissolve salt. Combine water and corn syrup in heavy-bottomed 2- to 3-quart saucepan; pour sugar into center of saucepan, taking care not to let sugar granules touch sides of pan. Gently stir with clean spatula to moisten sugar thoroughly. Cover and bring to boil over medium-high heat; cook, covered and without stirring, until sugar is completely dissolved and liquid is clear, 3 to 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, without stirring, until bubbles show faint golden color, 3 to 5 minutes more. Reduce heat to medium-low. Continue to cook (swirling occasionally) until caramel is light amber and registers about 360F/182C degrees on candy or instant-read thermometer, 1 to 3 minutes longer. Remove saucepan from heat and carefully add cream in small doses to center of pan; stir with whisk or spatula (mixture will bubble and steam vigorously) until cream is fully incorporated and bubbling subsides. Stir in butter and vanilla until combined; transfer caramel to glass bowl or measuring cup and allow to cool.
2. For the brownies: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 325F/162C degrees. Butter a 9-in/23cm square pan and line bottom and sides with baking paper or greased foil, leaving excess to overhang pan sides to allow for easy removal for slicing brownies later.
3. Melt butter and bittersweet and unsweetened chocolates in medium heatproof bowl set over saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring occasionally, until smooth and combined; set aside to cool slightly. Meanwhile, whisk together flour and baking powder in small bowl; set aside. When chocolate has cooled slightly, whisk eggs in large bowl to combine; add sugar, salt, and vanilla and whisk until incorporated. Add melted chocolate mixture to egg mixture; whisk until homogenous. Add flour mixture; stir with rubber spatula until almost combined. Add chopped pecans and chocolate chips (if using); mix until incorporated and no flour streaks remain.
4. Distribute half of brownie batter in prepared baking pan, spreading in even layer. Drizzle scant 1/4 cup or 0,60dl caramel over batter. Drop remaining batter in large mounds over caramel layer; spread evenly and into corners of pan with rubber spatula. Drizzle additional scant 1/4 cup or 0,60dl caramel over top. Using tip of butter knife, swirl caramel and batter. Bake brownies until toothpick inserted into center comes out with only a few moist crumbs attached, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool brownies in pan on wire rack to room temperature, about 1 1/2 hours.
5. Heat remaining caramel (about 3/4 cup or 1,75dl) in microwave until warm and pourable but still thick (do not boil), 45 to 60 seconds, stirring once or twice; pour caramel over brownies. Using spatula, spread caramel to cover surface. Refrigerate brownies, uncovered, at least 2 hours.
6. Using baking paper or foil extensions, lift brownies from baking pan, loosening sides with paring knife, if needed. Using chef's knife, cut brownies into 25 evenly sized squares. Press a pecan half onto surface of each brownie. Serve chilled or at room temperature.